Monday, May 31, 2004

Down by the Shore

So here I am, trapped. The fish look different through my waterlogged eyes, and the coral. My vision has assumed a submarine perception, I clearly distinguish the patches of sun reflecting against he coarse patterns of the rock pool. The incoming tide rocks me back and forth, singing its aquamarine lullaby to me; my clothing, my scarf, my entire body follow the rhythm of every gentle wave rippling towards the shore. My hair is but a tangled mane of red seaweed.
I am no longer me; with each passing day I am turning inexorably, into an aquatic creature. This metamorphosis brings me in touch with a sub-world, the colours and rhythms of which remain yet unknown to me. Funny that I should discover this plentiful beauty now that I can no longer claim it; now that it has manifested itself to my amphibian glare, I can no longer hold it.
Soon I shall be gone, dissolved bit by bit into this endless seascape. Already I feel little fish nibbling at my ankles. That's not so bad. After all, I could not have asked for a better resting place.

Thursday, May 27, 2004

The Glassmaker

Glass against wood. On the workbench in the glassblower’s studio, in a little village in the hills above Lake Lugano, three vases glow in the sun. The smooth topaz, turquoise and jade surfaces reflect the light beams that stream through the south window and appear as if the glass were still glowing from the furnace.

The glassblower sits beside the amber glow of the kiln, transforming a rigid glass pane into a cylindrical vessel. He works the molten glass, gathered at the end of a long iron pipe. Sparks fly as he smoothes the vitreous mass with a steel paddle. He sits in his custom-made glassmaker's chair, which has extended arms to support the blowpipe.

Back and forth he goes, from the chair to the kiln. Once the glass reaches working temperature, the glassblower extracts it from the mouth of the kiln, then goes back to the chair and shapes the amorphous substance — using the taglio, a wide steel blade. To cool the mass he rolls it against the steel surface or a laboratory table, then blows into the pipe to control the shape and thickness. Again he returns the gather to the kiln and when the molten glass is plastic, the glassblower works the vitreous substance, using jacks, pinces and shears, refining the form and constantly reheating the glass in the kiln. Blowing and shaping and heating.

The art of glassmaking is deeply rooted in civilizations past — the Islamic glass working tradition for instance, is 500 years old; their techniques dating back to Byzantine times. The typical ingredient of glass is recycled, discarded broken glass or bottles. Glass is composed primarily of Silica that is fused at high temperatures, between 500 Cº and 1650Cº depending on the mixture. Neither solid nor liquid, glass is fused to a liquid form, which gives it the consistency of honey and is then cooled to a rigid state. When cold, it can be carved. Glass can be translucent or opaque. It’s an amorphous substance, composed of highly unstable molecules. There’s a quality of glass that is high in sodium content; known as waterglass, it dissolves in water like syrup.

The glassmaker knows the interaction between hot and cold, and the process from liquid to solid. The glassblower’s magic lies in the ability to turn something unstructured into a defined shape that is functional and has a clearly defined identity. He’s been doing this for many years. Today, he travels internationally to pass on the secrets of his craft to the new generations of glassblowers, and to show his work in galleries around the world. He belongs to a small community that is tied to ancient traditions. Glass was first made in the Middle East, during the 3rd millennium BC but today, the craft branches into the spheres of high-art, still retaining all the allure of ancient times.



Bouquets from Grasse

My mother chose Joy; mine was Billet Doux, which means “gallant note” or love-letter. I remember the square-cut glass, it resembled a bottle of Chanel 5. The simple white label, glued to the front, only added to the allure of the container. On the label, the name of the scent was simply typed in black ink.

That was a long time ago and Billet Doux was much too floral for me. But I remember the magic of standing at the center of the distillery, where rivers of aromatic water bearing exotic names, were decanted from large alembics. On the shelves, rows of soaps were stacked like scented bricks and on the tables were bowls, laden with fresh petals that diffused their heady perfumes. The space was fragrant, the aroma of the flowers drifted from the perfumery into the gardens.

Visiting the perfume museum in Grasse, the third most important perfume capital in the world, I had entered a new dimension — a laboratory of the senses, the catalog of which read like a pharmacopoeia that invoked aromatic dreams.

Wednesday, May 26, 2004

Getting it Together

Lately I’ve been waking up early, so I say to myself, “might as well exercise.” But I look out the window and it’s still dark. I hear the delivery boy on his scooter, stuffing the junk mail into our mailbox. Sneaky.

My husband stirs… “Keep sleeping it’s still early.” I get out of bed and pull on some Lycra. I’m not doing this to be good. It’s just that I can’t sleep — too stressed the doctor said. Well, exercise is supposed to help, isn’t it? I drag myself into the kitchen. The full moon shines through the French windows, bright as a freshly washed plate. I step into the pool of silver light on the linoleum and boil some water. “It’s nice to get up early.” I try to get excited about all the things I have time do before heading off to work. But as I run through the list of things to do, suddenly I feel exhausted. “If only I could get back to sleep…” While a teabag seeps inside the steaming water, I pull on a fleecy top and some socks.

I’m standing at the window now, staring into the first light. Most of the buildings in the neighborhood are still dark. I try to spy the lit flats to see what the neighbors are doing inside their kitchens. There’s something infinitely comforting about a lit kitchen in the night —something about warmth and the promise of comfort.

The day breaks. I clutch my cup of tea and sit at the table, watching the new light erase the night. “Looks cold out there…” I sip my drink while I distractedly leaf through yesterday’s paper, which I hadn’t had time to read. An hour has passed since I awoke. The color of this embryonic day is gray. I open the window and listen to the faint morning traffic. Even the smell of this day is gray, like wet leaves. I tie the laces of my running shoes in double knots so they wont come undone, then I run down the flight of stairs and head for the park.

Monday, May 24, 2004

Happiness is a jam-packed breakfast tray

Fez, 20 May.

Africa again. Landscapes that roll into softness. Colors, vibrant, with the power to round off the edges of stones. Ochres and siennas that dissolve into sand.

The cry of dogs in the night. Tree-climbing goats nibbling on the foliage, donkeys and chickens along the road. People everywhere. Along the dusty roads, some ride bicycles but most go on foot. This is the land where even the desert has eyes. Here, amongst the camel herders and rocky hills of the unfolding desert, you are never, never alone. If you happen to stop at the centre of the barren landscape where, the only thing between the dusty plains and the bright sky is you, out of nowhere a herd of children comes running towards the car. They stop and smile and wave as we drive on, through this desert land that is alive with thousands of watchful eyes.

And we drive on, following the straight, narrow ribbon of tarmac that dissolves into the horizon. The road slices through the infinite vastness of the desert, cutting through gorges and skirting the slow, steep mountain passes through the Lower and the Higher Atlas. We drive through Oasis’. Here, in the dappled light of the palm grove, water flows in shimmering streams. Like the pattern of a Kilim, it winds around the stems of the palm trees, where the soil is moist. A bjellabah-clad figure heaves a can of water onto a scrawny donkey.

We drive towards the Kasbahs, these ephemeral fortresses made of water and sand, and their facades tattooed with chalk. Morocco, is a land where the realms of Africa and Islam are joined in work and in prayer. I see tattooed faces, djellabahs flapping in the wind, babouches of soft leather and hooded kaftans. This is a place shrouded, the mystery of which forever tantalizes my imagination. Veiled faces and shrouded bodies pass me by in total anonymity. In the labyrinth of the Medina there are forbidden mosques and small doorways that lead to secret places. I discover spy-windows and screens from which you can look without being exposed to the prying eyes of strangers.

And the mystery itself is enveloped by a strange mélange of scents, whether it’s the pleasing aroma of musk and sweet rose maroc wafting into the narrow alley from the herbalist store or the acrid fumes of ammonium and leather from the tannery, mixed in with the aroma of almond and honey from the market stalls. And to this inebriating, olfactory cocktail, comes an added dimension of mesmerizing sound.

The medina, a living, pulsating human anthill that hums to the rhythm of electric sitars. From the remotest corners of the maze, rises the cacophony of street vendors, the incessant thump of the weaving looms in the rug cooperatives, the tinny hammering of silversmiths, the strident claps of traffic and the drone of the crowd. And suddenly, surprisingly as if by accident, amongst all this frenetic activity, one distinguishes the melodic trickle of water in a fountain and then, above all else, you hear the Iman’s call to prayer coming from the minarets.

The noise in the medina persists eternal; exploding beyond the whitewashed walls and the perimeter of the citadel. But for all its force, this noise is but a murmur that is soon scattered and numbed aginst the endless silence of the stark desert plains. In the desert, even the wind is silent, as it sweeps the dust high into the sky. And as the clouds of sand are gathering, the land now is also veiled, like a woman’s body. Barely visible, villages recede into the pink haze of a dust storm.

Rissani, 23 May.

On the outskirts of the Sahara, where it’s been over five years since the arid ground was last moistened by y single drop of rain, on the road from Rissani to Erefoud and Tnehir Nick and I drive the Fiat Uno through the sandstorm. The wind sweeps mounds of dust onto the road, which are too big to drive over. So Nick manouvers the car around them, singing Bon Jovi’s “Living on a Prayer” loudly, and out of tune. It was then, at eight am that the first rain drop hit the windscreen. The light drizzle drew streaks through the orange paste quickly started to form on the windscreen.

30 rules for healthy living

(In no specific order of importance)

1. drink 10 cups of green tea daily
2. stretch every day
3. eat a wholesome, vegetarian diet
4. air your house out every day
5. walk at least 30 minutes every day
6. exercise at least 3 times a week
7. go to the sauna to detox your system
8. eat fresh fruit every day
9. practice good sex
10. meditate for 15 minutes every morning
11. wear good quality, comfortable shoes
12. choose 100% natural fibers for your clothing, linens and furnishings
13. use a loofah in the shower and moisturize
14. twice a week give yourself a facial
15. use sun protection
16. stay in touch with nature
17. eat a salad or raw vegetables every day
18. laugh loud and often
19. read a good book
20. spend time with your friends
21. do something creative
22. learn something new
23. travel
24. have regular massages
25. make a donation to a charity
26. always have a fresh bunch of flowers in your home
27. do the work you enjoy
28. nurture a keen interest in the arts
29. grow your own herbs
30. give thanks for the prosperity you enjoy

How Much Does Your Karma Cost? Revealing your feel-good budget.

NinaOndine, 41, writer, psychic and floral artist:

- Has massages every three weeks at Essere e Benessere, $70 per session
- Has reflexology every six months at Centro Aldebaran, $70 per session
- Has an Ayurvedic massage every six months, at Centro Aldebaran, $70 per session
- Visits the Freetime Club three times a week where she does circuit training, aerobics and body shaping classes followed by a sauna after each session, yearly subscription $1’200
- Has a solarium every month, $15 per session
- Started practicing yoga in 1982 and now stretches every second day or practices ayenga yoga at home
- Goes for a thirty minute walk every day
- Doesn’t eat animal proteins or white food, follows a strict Alkaline diet
- Drinks four cups of green tea every morning
- Shops at the organic food store, Biocasa, $500 per month
- Shops at The Body Shop, $30 per month
- Uses eco-friendly cleaning products
- Has a session with her visagiste every six months, $135 per treatment
- Creates a fresh flower arrangement every week, as a form of meditation, average cost of freshly cut flowers $40
- Meditates every day upon awaking
- Practices Reiki at home as positive visualization and to cleanse the house
- Uses Aromatherapy essential oils to scent her home and create special moods
- Once a week has a 20 minute-long hot bath, with green clay and almond oil to detox
- Every autumn and spring goes through a weekly fasting regime to cleanse and detox her system
- Visited a Kurhaus in Switzerland to follow an Ayurvedic fast and detox program, including colonic irrigation, $1’500
- Visits a homeopath twice a year, $560
- Doesen’t drink or smoke
- Keeps a heart-shaped rose quarz on her night stand to aid a restful sleep
- Only uses 100% cotton linens and always wears natural fibers
- Loathes high-heels and likes to have her feet ‘firmly planted’ on the ground
- Goes on holidays at least twice a year, off season, to breathtaking natural locations

KARMA COST PER MONTH: $1’136

Sunday, May 23, 2004

Fa(r)ther

Yours is an arcane language
a curtain that falls between us
your heart a fortified city
above the headland
omphalos of a windswept island
adrift the scent of citrus
yet against these shores
crystal waters beat
a rippling sound
a spiral line of dancers.

Marie Maurer

Through the passing seasons
your garden thrived the hands
were experienced with bowls
and pots and linen folded
carefully in neat piles
when I was three you charmed
a bird to sit in the
palm of your hand then it
returned each year again
when I was four you taught me
to swim when I was six
I borrowed your bike you
knitted me jumpers in
autumn in winter you
sled through immaculate
forests holing me tight
we climbed mountains in spring
and every summer
hired a rowing boat
you whistled like a scout
at bedtime kissed me good-
night I keep the gold ring
you wore on your right hand.

Eulogy for Karl Sprenger (13.08.1909 - 29.04.2004)

The snow, which had fallen abundantly throughout the winter, still covered the mountain tips. White icy patches also persisted in the narrow valleys. April 2004 was a long, cold month that unrolled slowly in a succession of nights wrapped in woollen blankets. And then, just as the spring flowers started coming into bloom, a cold backlash placated the vibrant scent of the Sweetness jonquils and the deep colours of the Bellona tulips and the Violet Pearl hyacinths. In Fischentahl, where Karl lived, the snow still covered the fields that surrounded the old people’s home. The drawn-out winter seemed a reflection of the old man’s own season. At the end of my journey through the Alps to see him, even the southern region from where I cam from had turned cold. The sky became dense with cloud that dimmed the natural light and brought back a chill in the air. Meanwhile, the old man’s condition worsened; during the time of his illness the snow began falling throughout the land – a highly unusual event in spring. Trees with blossoming branches turned white again. And then, Karl died and an incessant rain started. The rain fell persistently for ten days, from morning to sundown and throughout the frosty nights. The rain began on the day he drew his last breath and poured down relentlessly until his body was retuned to the earth. During these days, the ceaseless downpours caused much damage; entire cities were inundated in northern Italy and the central regions. On the day of the funeral, I stood beside his grave cloaked in black and holding a black umbrella up against the wet sky. Pale mud splattered across my black boots. Dahlias and anemones, a blaze of orange and yellow blooms warmed the eye. In the gloomy afternoon, the funeral wreaths and floral tributes that were arranged beside the grave glistened against the pewter sky.

He was 94 years old and would have turned 95 in August. He died on the same day that my beloved grandmother, Marie, passed 19 years earlier.

In 1999, Karl celebrated his 90th birthday. It was the first family gathering in several decades. My half-sister Diane who lives in the States, one of my brothers and two of my aunts were absent. Aunt Margrit was unwell so her husband Kurt, Karl’s oldest son, came alone, and aunt Anneliese was going through a divorce with Karl’s youngest son, Herbert. Karl’s daughter, Silvia who in 1981 migrated to Australia with her husband and three children, was there with her second husband, Dieter. So there we were, Karl, his three offspring, and four of his grandchildren. Herbert’s Anic and Ian, and two of Silvia’s kids, John and me. I sat across from Karl and my brother sat beside me. John had finally made it back to Switzerland; it was a dream he’d cultivated after spending his teenage years on Queensland’s Sunshine coast and later working as a chef for a mining corporation in a lonely outpost in the South Australian desert. During lunch, he confided that just before leaving a casual job in Broome he’d fallen for a dark-haired girl who collected angels. My brother Andrew was absent because he and his wife, Wendy, were expecting their first child and unable to make the journey from Australia at that time.

It was a clear, sunny afternoon and the restaurant overlooking the Schnebelhorn offered a lofty view that stretched for miles across the Toggenburg and the Alpstein. Karl sat at the centre of his family, evidently, proud as punch. When I first saw him, he appeared a little smaller and a little frailer than I last remembered, but his skin was smooth and a glow emanated from the man. He ate his food with relish and raised his glass of wine in cheer before the family circle. I looked at Anic, a sixteen year old with olive skin who wore an undersized tee shirt and pouted. Her brother, Ian, five years her junior, sat beside her and dug tunnels through his mashed potatoes. The thought crossed my mind that this might be the last time we’d all be together – our family gatherings were so few and far between – the next time might be on a sad occasion. And then a question crossed my mind; what did I know about my last surviving grandparent, this man whose 90-year life span we were celebrating? When I was a girl I spent the summers with my grandparents, Karl and Marili, on Lake Zürich. Karl was the postmaster in Feldbach a small village the name of which means literally, field-stream. The times spent with my grandparents in Feldbach are the fondest memories of my childhood. There, in the emerald waters of Lake Zürich, I learned to swim.

Karl Sprenger came into the world on 13 August 1909 in Herisau, in Appenzell, one of Switzerland’s primitive cantons. The reason Appenzell is a primitive canton is because it’s one of Switzerland’s original founding cantons. Still today Appenzell retains a proud heritage based on traditions that are no longer practiced in other parts of the country. Traditions such as the Mummer’ pagan New Year celebration on January 13, the Alpfahrt a yearly herd procession into the Alps, voting by hand-count, and a local form of wordless yodel. Karl was born into a humble family. Karl’s father grew up in an orphanage in Fischingen, which is why my Swiss passport states Fischingen as my place of origin. The surname Sprenger means ‘he who blows up’ suggesting someone who works with explosives. Karl’s’ father worked in a textile factory; he had trouble with his eyesight and after a botched operation, was left short-sighted all his life. He married but his first wife died leaving him with a child, Käte, Karl’s only sibling and older half-sister. Karl’s mother was 39 years old when he was born. Both his parent’s died by the time he reached age 15. Subsequently Karl went to live with a family in Winterthur where in 1926, he completed an apprenticeship as a mechanic in the Lockifabrik (locomotive factory). Karl said that it was thanks to his adoptive family that he was able to learn a trade.

During those years as an apprentice mechanic he noticed the posties picking up and delivering parcels at the Winterthur train station. He thought to himself that this would be a fine job, working for the Swiss post. One day, after he saw an advertisement for a job with the Swiss postal services, he sent in a letter of application. A short time later, he was asked to sit for the he admission exam in Zürich. He began studying in preparation of the test. Karl had an uncanny aptitude for geography but realizing that history was a weak point, he started cramming. Finally, the day of the exam came. He travelled to the city and passed the test. To his surprise, the position he was offered was not in Winterthur but at the Bahnhofpost in Zürich, the central mail distribution centre in Switzerland. So in 1928 young Karl began picking up, transporting and delivering parcels with the use of a yellow cart, from inbound trains to outbound trains along the busy platforms of Zürich’s main train station. In the confusion he had to make sure that all the letters and parcels got on the right trains. Later, he transferred to the Sihlpost where sorting parcels was less hectic and delivered the mail all around Zürich. He said that he had to remember over two thousand streets and addresses and therefore, he came to know the city very well.

When he first arrived in Zürich, Karl shared a flat with another young man. But this arrangement didn’t work out very well because his flatmate worked nightshifts. Then, with the help of the local church he managed to find a room with a God-fearing family and started boarding with them. During these years, WWII broke out. Karl was drafted in the army and sent to work as a mechanic on the airfields in canton Vaud. The war years were spent alternating army duty with his work at the Zürich post office, interchanging the service with civilian life. In this phase of his life, Karl met Marie Maurer (Marili), a young saleswoman who worked in Zürich’s exclusive shopping district, the Bahnhofstrasse. A true city girl, Marili came from a working class family. She had two older siblings, her brother Anton and her sister Elsie. Her father delivered coal and her mother took cleaning jobs in upper class Zurigese family homes. After spending some time in Frieburg to perfect her French, Marili began a sales apprenticeship and then worked at the famed toy store, Franz Karl Weber in the Bahnhofstrasse. Karl and Marili met during the summer, through the Protestant Church group. He recalls that even after all those months he spent in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, Marili was still much better at speaking French that he was. They were married in 1936, she was 22 years old and he was 27. Marili kept her job at Franz Karl Weber until the birth of the first child, Kurt, in 1939. In 1941 her second child, Silvia, was born followed by Herbert in 1949.

All up, Karl spent 21 years in Zürich, working as a postie until 1949. When he first arrived in Zürich Karl didn’t like the city much. “All those narrow streets and tall buildings and no sunshine,” he said. He longed for the open sky and the rolling meadows of the county side. So when an opportunity arose, he applied for the position of postmaster in a farming community in Steg. With his shining references, he had no trouble landing the job. The little village was nestled amongst the hills, 30 kilometres inland from the shores of Lake Zürich. From what I was able to gather through family mythology, the years spent in Steg were the Sprenger’s family’s happiest. Karl said that he was lucky that Marili, a born and bread city dweller, liked the country so the time in Steg was a happy one. Their children grew up in a rural community, leading an innocent and carefree existence; the family’s rhythms in perfect harmony with the seasons of the land.

Karl was able to borrow money and to buy the house that was attached to the post office. Eventually, he paid off the loan. Then one day, a man came and said that the road in front of their house had to be widened and that the building would have to be torn down and the post office relocated. So they build a new post office, covering the extra costs by building two flats instead of one and renting the spare one to the builder’s in-laws. But my Marili clashed with the snooty German woman that moved in upstairs.

In 1959 a new opportunity arose, for a position in Feldbach. It was Marili who mentioned it first. “Wouldn’t it be nice to live by the lake?” She said. Due to the priviledged position, this was a very sought after position. Karl applied but wasn’t really confident about getting the post. It so happened that the person whom the position had been offered to, refused on account of the rooms in the house being too small for his furniture. “Do you have a wall-unit?” The head office asked Karl over the phone and since he didn’t, the family moved into the house without any problems. The yellow two-story building, which rose above the crest of a little hill overlooking Feldbach’s only intersection, was both a private home and a post office. Surrounding the house was a huge garden in which crab apples, a cherry tree, a plum tree and rows of berries grew. There was even a vegetable garden and next to the double garage, an old chook-pen that Herbert appropriated as his cubby house.

By the time they moved to Feldbach Karl and Marili’s two oldest children were already grown and had left home. Kurt finished his studies and began working in Zürich. Silvia completed an apprenticeship and spent a year in Lausanne, perfecting her French. At the start of the 60s she took a job as an au pair in Toronto, in order to learn English. During that time she met Joseph Edward Hermes Salvatore Zarb, a Maltese businessman. Joe was married to an Austrian woman, Ingemar, with whom he had a young daughter, Diane, my older half-sister. Sometime during 1961 Silvia and Joe fled Canada together and returned to Switzerland. They crossed the Atlantic on the Leonardo Da Vinci, taking the two year-old Diane with them. While my parents tried to get jobs and a roof over their heads, Karl and Marili took care of Diane. Only a few years later, after I was born, it would be my turn to spend time there with my grandparents. I remember Karl, then in his early 50s, already bald and with the trademark potbelly; he always smiled, exposing the gap between his two front teeth. As a child, I followed his postmaster’s chores with great fascination. The way he carried out his work with dedicated precision indicated to my childhood perception that my grandfather was a man of great responsibility and skill. To my delight he would sometimes let me stamp the envelopes, but recommended that I was to take great care so that the seal wouldn’t smudge and the date was legible. Another job that was assigned to me was sorting all the coins so that they could be wrapped by denomination and stored in the safe. Before long I became the post office’s mascot, the young postmen would play with me, sometimes plunging me into one of the canvas bags filled with mail.

Karl was a postmaster and a family man, but he was also a keen gardener. Much of the fresh fruit and vegetables that ended up in Marili’s kitchen were harvested thanks to Karl’s aptitude for farming. The garden thrived, and with each season it delivered a surplus of produce that was pickled and preserved with Marili’s expertise. And so jars of home made jams, relishes and pickles stocked the basement shelves. According to the time of year fresh apple pies, spinach omelettes, zucchini, green beans with bacon casseroles, or berries and cream where on the menu.

I remember Karl as a man whose sense of duty was dictated by a sort of in-born Swiss precision. In all those years as a postmaster, I don’t believe he once opened or closed the post office to the public, a minute too early or a minute too late. As far back as I’m able to remember he had his breakfast at 6 a.m., lunch at noon and dinner at 7 p.m. every day of his life. Even as a child I couldn’t but admire this kind of consistency. And even after he’d been a pensioner for many years, he stuck to this schedule. Whenever I wanted to visit him and have lunch with him, I would have to embark on the four-hour journey early enough to be there at 12 o’clock sharp. There was no use arguing about it, on the topic of lunch he was immovable, he wouldn’t budge by 30 minutes. It did not matter to him that in order to be there on time I had to rise at the crack of dawn to make the earliest train. Visiting Karl involved a long journey across the Alps including the 17 kilometre-long tunnel beneath the Gotthard pass, one of the longest in the world. It was a journey into a different linguistical zone, through Switzerland’s heartland of snowy peaks, icy lakes and cows grazing in rolling meadows, a landscape of Gothic church steeples, farm houses, woodpiles and apple trees. The trip involved two train changes. First the Intercity from Milan to Zürich, past the Lake of the Four Cantons until Arth-Goldau. From there, the Voralberg Express to Rapperswil through the Sattle (saddle); the train still whistles when it passes a railway crossing! The last stretch was a 20-minute ride on the regional train to Fischenthal.

During one of my visits, Karl bragged that he’d been in the old people’s home the longest, implying that he’d outlived all the other guests who’d moved in at the same time as he. After Marili died, Karl went to live a short time with his son Kurt and his wife Margrit, in Buch am Irchel. But the arrangement didn’t work out too well. Karl liked his peace and quiet and had a low tolerance for Kurt and Margrit’s 16 cats, which dominated the household. On the other hand, Margrit a talented cook, became frustrated with Karl’s fussyness about food. “I like my soup,” he’d say. For some time he tried living alone, he even followed a Migros cooking course for seniors. But soon enogh became tired with the shopping and cleaning. Eventually he decided to find himself a place where he’d be looked after and could grow old in comfort. He selected the Altersheim Geeren, in Fischenthal, wich is a village away from Steg where the Sprenger’s had lived so happily. Karl still had friends there and knew the people living in the home.

He pointed at an old lady in a wheel chair. “When she arrived a couple of months ago, she could still walk,” he said. “But since being here she’s deteriorated quite rapidly, look at her now!” He told me that once one of the senior residents ends up in hospital, “That’s it. They never come back!” Although he was a healthy old man, I couldn’t help but notice that at every visit he seemed smaller, thinner, paler. But then he would start talking and telling stories and his grey features would fill with vitality once more. His ivory teeth would be revealed by a smile and the myopic eyes, which had shrunk to small opaque buttons under the weight of his collapsing eyelids, still twinkled. Whenever Karl expected one of my visits, I would see him from the train, standing by the window in his room, holding the curtain aside and looking at the train rushing past the old people’s home. While I walked from the train station, he would get his Basque and walking stick out of the wardrobe and walk downstairs to wait for me at the entrance of the building. Several hours later, on my way back home, I’d see him standing by his window once more, trying to catch a last glimpse of me and waiving – though the train moved much too swiftly for his old eyes. Those moments always filled me with immense tenderness.

At the time of my last visit, Karl had already begun his final journey. This time he was not standing at the front of the building wearing his Basque and waiting for me as usual. I found him instead, lying on the bed in his room. The old man was paler than ever and for the first time, I sensed he was very frail. Death was like a shadow hanging over him, encroaching, waiting for the right time to come. After about half an hour Karl decided to get up and move to the couch. Surprisingly he was more nimble than one might have expected. In his wobbly fashion he managed to ambulate the few steps that separated the couch from the bed. Meanwhile, I talked very loudly until he remembered to insert his hearing aid. I offered him chocolates, he got up to find his dentures. I was overcome by a mixture of tenderness and dread at the sight of this man whose skin was as papery as a moth’s wings. But even then, as I witnessed the coming loose of his physical being, there was an eternal essence about him that radiated proportionally to the degree with which he begun to fade on a physical level.

I remember my grandfather standing in the kitchen with a dishcloth in his hand. At the end of each meal while my grandmother washed the dishes, Karl always dried the pots and pans, the plates and cutlery and glassware, putting everything back in its place. That was his share of the housework. It was a moment of domestic intimacy between my grandparents that infused me with a sense of security and pleasure. When Karl retired, as a present, Marili bought him a rocking chair. Karl had a special gift for being able to recite poetry by heart. Even in his later years, he was able to recall poems he’d learned as a young lad. He also loved to read and was great at crossword puzzles, which he eventually had to decipher with the use of a magnifying glass. He often sat on the couch resting his crossed arms on his big belly. As he lived a long and healthy life, I once asked him what his secret was. “To lead a happy and contented existence,” he said.

In the modest chapel in Buch am Irchel, beside the cemetery where my grandmother was buried, the preacher retold Karl’s life and in many ways you could say that his long life was uneventful. The preacher focussed on his second trip to Australia, in 1994. His first trip to Australia had taken place in 1984, when my grandmother was still living. During their visit, Marili celebrated her 70th birthday. Two years later, she died of cancer. But the second trip, the preacher said, was Karl’s big life adventure. He undertook the long journey to visit his daughter Silvia and his grand kids all on his own, at the ripe old age of 85 years.

There are moments in life when we feel alive with every molecule in our body, and we feel connected to the entire world around us. Every blade of grass, every bird in the sky is connected to us. It’s as if our heart is about to burst from all this emotion and our body vibrates with the life force within us and around us, in a kind of cosmic rhythm. I think Karl was a simple man, and by that I don’t mean shallow or plain. I mean he was uncomplicated and straight-forward. This way of his, of going through life seemingly effortlessly, has served him well. There is an element of purity and wisdom in his easy manner. It is a quality that in my own, troubled and complicated life, I aspire to. I try to find my way back, onto that path of being undemanding and trouble-free. But maybe, with his pasing, that golden era has come to an end.

This is how I like to remember Karl: lying beside the swimming pool on my mother’s property in Twin Hill in Queensland, wearing a pair of board shorts and a Sunshine Coast tee shirt. A knotted handkerchief protecting his bald head from the sunshine and the generous curve of his belly blotting out the view of the Glasshouse Mountains.